CISMA(China International Sewing Machinery & Accessories Show) is the world the largest professional sewing machinery show in the world. The exhibits include pre-sewing, sewing, and after-sewing equipment, CAD/CAM, spare parts and accessories which covers the whole garment production procedure. CISMA has won attention and recognition from both exhibitors and visitors with its grand scale, excellent service and trade function.
CISMA is a platform to display new product and a bridge to connect upstream and downstream industry chain. Every CISMA attracted lots of world famous brands to come, such as Duerkopp-Adler, Pfaff, Juki, Brother, Pegasus, Yamoto, Lectra, Gerber, Oshima, Golden Wheel, Gaolin Siruba, Sunstar, Macpi, Veit, Tajima, Barudan. A bunch of equipment with electric-control devices, mino-lubrication, multi-function and high level of automation appeared in the show. The increased level of technology and added value is now changing the critical procedure in apparel production stream line.

In terms of “tailor-made clothes”, we can see the importance of anthropometric measurements for garment designers and garment model workers. Unlike mass-produced garments, private customization is more exquisite. No matter what body shape you are, you will eventually achieve a fit effect. Therefore, before making customized clothing, you must master various special body measurement techniques.

Let’s learn how to accurately measure the size of each part of the body.

Step 1: Measure the shoulder width. How can the shoulder width be measured accurately? The measurer stands behind the subject and uses two fingers to find the lateral midpoint of the acromion, which is the acromion point, along the scapula. Use a soft ruler to measure the distance between the two acromion points. The error of the reading scale shall not exceed 0.5 cm.

Step 2: We need to measure the size of the neckline. Regarding the size of the neckline, you can increase or decrease it according to the size of the neckline you want (the size of the mannequin frame is 13 inches).

Step 3: Measure the size of the bust. First of all, we must first determine which part of the bust size is the most suitable. It is the standard bust measurement by balancing the circumference for a week along the armpits and at the fullest part of the chest. Take the size. (Small tailoring takes the size of the model stand to 27 inches)

Step 4: Measure and take off the waist. Generally, the small cuts are measured with a standard 12-inch, just to the finest position of the waist. If you encounter a special body shape, we must measure the two waists at the same time.

Step 5: At the 12-inch lower waist section, we can measure our waist circumference, which is also the smallest part of our waist circumference for a week (the size of the mannequin frame is 21 inches for a small cut)

Step 6: To measure the size of our hips, generally draw a crop map, and the hip size is 5 inches below the waist. Of course, we measure the hip size and balance the circumference along the fullest part of the hip. (Small tailoring takes the size of the model stand to 28 inches)

Step 7: Measure the length of our clothes. We can measure the length we want. The standard measure is the length of the clothes, which is the length of the neck from the left side of the front body, through the highest point of the chest, and measure the required length . (Small tailoring takes the size of the model stand to be 18 inches)

Step 8: Measure the size of the sleeve length. The same is to measure the required size according to your own preferences. The standard measurement is to measure from the vertex of the left shoulder bone to the mouth of the hand, and then increase or decrease the length as needed. To measure the cuff is to measure the wrist for a week, and then add a ruler as needed.

Measuring the body size is the first step for us to sew clothes, and it is also the easiest step to learn sewing.

Medical protective clothing, as a type of chemical protective clothing, is mainly used for medical personnel to wear protection, not only to vent moisture and breathe freely, but also to protect medical personnel from various pollutants, such as viruses and bacteria during diagnosis and treatment. Medical protective clothing can resist the infection from intrusion of water, alcohol, and oil stains, and it is effective against static electricity and even prevent dust from entering.

Medical protective clothing requires resistances for water, blood, alcohol, and antistatic. Ordinary woven materials is not unusable, have to use Mico-nano materials. This composite material can be compounded by different materials, such as polyethylene / polypropylene spunbond nonwoven fabric, breathable microporous film or other nonwoven fabric, or spunlace nonwoven fabric and breathable microporous film, Wooden paddle composite spunlace nonwoven.

Production of medical protective clothing:

Common medical protective clothing usually consists of a hat, jacket, and pants composed as complete clothing. There are strict standards in the production process, including protective (sealing), wear ability, safety and health. Main production process include cutting, sewing, applying elasticity, and seam sealing tape. Usually, we mainly use cutting machines, lockstitch sewing machines, overlock sewing machines and hot air seam sealing machines.

1. Cutting process

According to the design of protective clothing, the cutting pieces of various parts are mainly used by automatic sharpening cutting machine and band knife cutting machines. If mass production, can use full automatic cutting machine.

2.  Basic sewing

Regardless of the production of ordinary clothing or the production of protective clothing, almost all stitching cannot be separated from the sewing machine. Although it is a “basic worker”, its role must not be underestimated. The tightness of the thread and the stitch length. The degree of detail is related to the final effect. It can meet the processes of sewing, zip-up, velcro, and elastic in protective clothing.

3. Zipper and Velcro

Medical protective clothing usually use a closed placket design: the inner is closed by zipper and the outer placket is closed by velcro. Mainly use lockstitch sewing machine to attach zipper and velcro. In addition to better putting on and taking off, this design can make the fit tighter.

4. With elastics on cuffs, ankles, and hats

In order to make the medical protective clothing fit better, its cuffs, waist, ankles, and hats are designed with elastics. Mainly use high speed lockstitch sewing machine (such as JK8-D5, JK6-D4, etc.) or super high speed overlock sewing machine (with an elastic device such as EX5214DD-AC, JK8730-504M2-04TR, etc.)

The design with elastic is used to reinforce the protective clothing when it is used with other protective equipment, which has higher adhesion, and also prevents dust or liquid from entering.

5. Seam sealing process

In addition to these designs, the reason why protective clothing have such a high degree of tightness is inseparable from the most important step—seam sealing. After sewing the protective clothing, all stitches and pinholes in the protective clothing need to be sealed by seam sealing tape machines to prevent dust or liquid from entering the sewing pinholes to enhance the isolation performance and use of the protective clothing safety.

Medical masks are mostly made of one or more layers of non-woven fabrics. The main production processes include meltblown, spunbond, hot air or acupuncture. They are equivalent to resisting liquids, filtering particulates and bacteria, and are a type of medical protection.

1. Outer layer material: PP non-woven fabric, role: water blocking, dust blocking, preventing droplets from entering.
2. Intermediate layer (important) material: melt blown non-woven fabric; characteristics: water repellent, good filterability, fiber diameter 1 ~ 5 microns. Can block more than 90% of 5-micron particles from entering, the new coronavirus 5 micron.
3. Inner layer material: non-woven fabric; role: mainly to make the mask feel comfortable.
4. Nose bridge strip material: Polyolefin resin; Function: Fix the mask and fit the face, play the role of shaping and blocking.
5. Elastic ear band material: hollow elastic rope; role: fixed mask, easy to wear.

Production Process:

1.Mask making machine: Hang the non-woven raw material on the material frame of the mask film making machine. After debugging, the machine automatically produces the mask film;

2. Ear band spot welding machine: Turn the mask sheet to the ear band machine to perform spot tape, and the mask is completed.

COVID-19 is spreading and many countries were attacked by it. But we shall not be panic. If we do something, we’ll beat it! There are lots of things we can do？

What we can do in our daily life?

1. Try not to go out. If you have to, walk or drive yourself. Try not to take public transportation.
2. Don’t gather around. There are plenty of time we can meet each other if we successfully overcome this epidemic. Keep yourself safe and keep others safe in the same time.
3. Wear a mask if go out. N95 is not the only choice. Deal with your worn mask in a right way
4. Wash your hands regularly in a right way. Keep warm but ventilate frequently at home.

What we can do during work time?

1. In the lift, wear mask and try not to talk. Don’t rub your eyes or nose. Try not to touch the button directly and wash your hands off the lift at once. Sanitize the lift every day.
2. In the canteen, take off your mask until you start to eat. Don’t touch the pollution side of the mask. Try to avoid the dining peak. If possible, bring meals to work.
3. In the office, ventilate frequently. Try not to have meetings. Better work on line. Try not to talk face to face. Always wear a mask.
4. Sanitize the telephone, door handle, mouse and keyboard, etc. The NCP is sensitive to organic solvents, disinfectants and UV.

Take care everyone & may the world recovers from COVID-19 soon.

Sewing machines routinely have many of the same problems, which means they are easily anticipated and usually have established methods of repairing them. Other problems are unique to specific machines, and the fixes may be particular to the brand and model of machine, so it is best to have the manual for your sewing machine on hand as the first reference.

To one degree or other, most sewing machines are susceptible to these six common problems.

01  Tangling Caused by Improper Threading

A massive nest of tangled thread is usually because the sewing machine is improperly threaded. Just because the tangled mess is on the bobbin side of the stitching, don’t assume the fault lies with the bobbin. Most of the time tangled thread occurs because the sewing machine is not threaded properly.

Put the presser foot up and unthread the sewing machine entirely. Use your sewing machine manual as a guide to make sure you are guiding the thread through all of the guides it in the proper fashion.

One of the most common mistakes people make is to thread a sewing machine with the presser foot up. Threading the machine with the presser foot down causes the tension disks to be engaged or tight, meaning that the thread will not seat properly between the disks.

02  Skipped Stitches

The most common reason for a sewing machine skipping stitches is that you are using the wrong type of needle for the fabric you are sewing. The simplest rule of thumb is that a knit fabric requires a ballpoint needle and woven fabric requires a sharp needle—but of course there is more to it than that. If the machine is sewing fine and you find yourself changing the needle very frequently, you should make sure you are allowing the machine to feed the fabric and that you are not forcing the fabric through the sewing process.

Skipped stitches can also result if the needle is bent, which can occur if you are forcing the fabric rather than let the machine feed it automatically.

A sewing machine needle is the smallest and usually one of the least expensive parts of a sewing machine to replace, you owe it to yourself to understand everything about sewing machine needles.

03  Fabric Not Feeding Under the Needle

A number of issues can cause fabric feed problems. Many sewing machines have a setting that lowers the feed dog, which is necessary for free-motion sewing. But in normal operation, the feed dogs are what move the fabric under the sewing machine needle. If the feed dogs are not coming up to move the fabric, check to see if there is a setting that has lowered the feed dog and return it to its proper setting.
If there is no such setting on your machine, take the throat plate off and clean out all dust, thread, and lint. Oil the machine according to your sewing machine manual. If the feed dogs still do not work, read your sewing machine manual. When all else fails, it may be time to take the machine in for repairs.

T-shirts are a wardrobe staple for many people. Overtime, they may become too old, faded, or stained to wear. Instead of throwing the shirt away, why not turn it into a trendy tank top? There are two types of tank tops: basic tank tops and racerback tank tops. Both are easy to make. All you need are some scissors. You can finish the hems on a sewing machine for a neater look, but you don’t need to; t-shirt fabric does not fray.

1. Find a tank top to use as a template. Since you’ll be using it as a model, make sure that the fit is just right and looks good on you.

If you don’t have a tank top to use as a template, don’t worry. You can still make a tank top.

2. Choose a t-shirt you won’t mind cutting up and turn it inside out. The shirt does not need to fit well, unless you want a fitted tank top. If the shirt is a brand new shirt, wash and dry it first. Fabric tends to shrink after you wash it the first time, and you want the shirt to be the right size before you start working on it.

Comfortable, durable, and versatile, jeans have been a fashion staple for over 50 years. Shopping for jeans, though, can be a hassle. Unless you’re lucky enough to have a model’s body, you may have to spend a lot of time in the dressing room before you find a pair that looks great and fits just right. This is especially true if you’re on a budget, since the price of jeans, especially designer jeans, has risen dramatically over the years. Make your own jeans, however, and you can have the perfect fit at a fraction of what you’d pay in stores. Here are some tips to help you create your own trusty jeans.

8 Steps

1.Take your measurements. The most important measurements for jeans are your waist and hips. While side seams and inseams are usually quite easy to modify, the hip size can be difficult to alter. Measure your hips at their fullest point, usually 8 or 9 inches (20.3 or 22.9 cm) below the waist. You can use these measurements to look up the correct pattern size on the pattern manufacturer’s sizing chart. Most patterns are suitable for use with a range of sizes, so you just need to make sure the range on the pattern you choose includes your size.

2. Select a pattern you like. As for just about any sewing project, you need to start with the right pattern. Your local craft store or discount store will have a variety of patterns, and you can also order patterns online. You should be able to find a pattern for any style you want. Patterns for non-denim pants can work if you know what you’re doing, but if this is your first jeans project, you’ll definitely want to use a pattern that’s intended specifically for jeans.

3. Select your fabric. Be careful when choosing your fabric, because many denims are too thin for jeans. Make sure you get “jeans-grade” denim. There are many colors available, but you can also dye your fabric to your liking. Indigo dye is the traditional blue jeans dye.

4. Fit your pattern to your body. You should take several measurements at various points from your waist to your hips and down the legs, as well as the crotch. Write down these measurements, adding “ease” of up to an inch in the waist, ³⁄₄ inch (1.9 cm) in the crotch, and 2 inches (5.1 cm) in the hips (adding ease ensures that your jeans aren’t skin-tight, and you can alter the amount of ease you add depending on your preferences). Compare your measurements to those on the pattern, and alter the pattern where necessary. Remember, of course, to also alter the pattern for the correct length.

5. Preshrink your fabric. Wash and dry the fabric on the same settings as you would use to wash the finished jeans. You can save water and energy by washing with your other like-colored laundry. Prewashing will make the fabric easier to work with, and it will help you make sure that your jeans really fit.

6. Follow the instructions on the pattern. Generalized instructions won’t help you much at this point. You simply need to cut your fabric and sew it according to the instructions on your pattern.

7. Customize your jeans. Once your jeans are finished, you can add trim, buttons, patches or anything else to dress them up and make them “designer” jeans.You can even make holes in them or distress them if you like that look.

8. Wash and dry the finished jeans before wearing.

CISMA (China International Sewing Machinery & Accessories Show) is the world largest professional sewing equipment exhibition in the world. The exhibits include all kinds of pre-sewing, sewing, and after-sewing equipment, CAD/CAM, spare parts and accessories which covers the whole garment production procedure. CISMA has won attention and recognition from both exhibitors and visitors with its grand scale, excellent service and trade function.

CISMA is a platform to display new product and a bridge to connect upstream and downstream industry chain. Every CISMA attracted lots of world-famous brands to come, such as PFAFF, JUKI, BROTHER, PEGASUS, YAMOTO, LECTRA, GERBER, OSHIMA, GOLDEN WHEEL, GAOLIN, SUNSTAR, TAJIMA, BARUDAN. Famous domestic brands such as TYPICAL, SGSB, ZOJE, JACK, DAHAO displayed products as well. A bunch of equipment with electric-control devices, mino-lubrication, multi-function and high level of automation appeared in the show. The increased level of technology and added value is now changing the critical procedure in apparel production stream line.

CISMA will be held at Shanghai New International Expo Center from September 25th to 28th, 2019. In China’s garment and sewing equipment industry are in the critical stage of the transition and upgrading, CISMA2019 will be a more efficient, energy-saving, environmentally friendly and intelligent advanced technology representing the development direction of clothing equipment, and will definitely contribute to the promotion of the garment industry upgrading.

TAIZHOU JOCKY SEWING MACHINERY CO., LTD is located in Jiaojiang District, Taizhou City, Zhejiang Province, which is called the China Sewing Machine Capital. It is a subsidiary of Meetlin Group, specialized in the development of garment equipment and research of intelligent application. It has a stable production base which can produce all kinds of sewing machines and related equipment.

The brand JOCKY means-Enjoy Speed And Power. We are committed to improving the production efficiency of the garment industry by the intelligent sewing technology to meet needs for diverse stitches; To save production cost and improve workshop environment by reducing energy consumption and noise; To bring pleasant enjoyment to the worker by innovating design of the appearance of the equipment.

JOCKY with Hangzhou Meetlin Imp.& Exp.Co.,Ltd. is committed to international promotion. After 15 years’ efforts, JOCKY brand machines have been widely used in clothing, shoes, hats, vehicle interior decoration, leather products and household textile etc. Meanwhile, we have become the main supplier and OEM production base for many international famous brands. Our products have been exported to more than 50 countries, which makes us a well-known and professional equipment supplier in the world.

We, Hangzhou Meetlin Imp.& Exp.Co,Ltd., sincerely invite you to attend CISMA 2019 SHANGHAI. Our booth is W5-E56. Looking forward to see you!

1.Sudden stop during sewing; The power indicator light is on, but the hand-wheel is heavily stagnant.
1) Possible Reasons: Sewing machine has been working at a low speed for a long time; sewing machine overheating may cause automatic shutdown of motor power supply.
2)Solution: Turn off the power supply and wait 20 minutes, the safety device will restart, and the sewing machine will be ready to start work.
2.The needle does not go.
1)Possible Reasons: The upper thread is used up; the presser foot is not lay down; the shuttle shaft is not in the correct position.
2)Solution: Replace the empty spool, re-recognize the needle; lower the presser foot; press the shuttle shaft to the bottom and return to the left, lower the buttonhole.
3.Sewing machine stops when it starts.
1)Possible Reasons: The presser foot does not match, or the needle strikes the presser foot; the needle falls off and snaps into the crochet.
2)Solution: Replace the presser foot, remove the needle and install a new needle.
4.Upper thread break.
1)Possible Reasons: Improper threading mode; thread knotting; excessive thread tension; needle bending, blunt tip or blisters; needle type is not suitable; needle placement is not appropriate; needlework mismatched; sewing initial speed is too fast; threading without thread pick-up device.
2)Solution: Threading normally; eliminate knotting; adjust clamp pressure; replace the needle of the appropriate type; properly place the needle; change the thread or change the needle; start the sewing machine at medium speed and check the step of going line.
5.Bottom thread break.
1)Possible Reasons: The shuttle core is not fully inserted into the shuttle shell; the shuttle core is wound by wires; the shuttle core does not work smoothly in the shuttle shell; the shuttle shell or shuttle has yarn.
2)Solution: Carefully reload the shuttle core into the shuttle shell, tidy up the shuttle shell outlet, check that the shuttle core whether be damaged; clean up the shuttle shell and the shuttle core.
6.Wire jumper.
1)Possible Reasons: Excessive thread tension; needle bending or blunt; needle type is not suitable; needle thread is mismatched; threading without thread pick-up device; foot pressure is insufficient; needle placement is inappropriate.
2)Solution: Adjust the thread tension, replace the needle, select the appropriate needle, replace the needle or use the thread, check the threading step, increase the pressure of the presser foot, re-thread the needle.
7.Stitches are unqualified.
1)Possible Reasons: The machine cable is not fully pulled into the sensor; the threading method is incorrect; the shuttle shell is out of line incorrectly; the bobbin cap does not match the size.
2)Solution: Fully pull the sensor into the sensor; properly threading; correcting the shuttle shell outlet; use the size-matched shaft cap.
8.Stitches are order-less.
1)Possible Reasons: The needle type is not matched; the step of going line is wrong; the tension plate is slack; strongly pull the fabric; the presser foot is insufficient or completely slack; the shuttle core is deformed.
2)Solution: Select suitable needles for thread and fabric, re-apply the thread on the machine, tighten the gripper, gently feed the fabric without pulling it, tighten or reload the presser foot, rewind the shuttle core.
9.Fabric wrinkling.
1)Possible Reasons: The stitches are too large for a particular fabric; needle tip is passivated; thread tension is not suitable; foot pressure is insufficient; the fabric is too light and thin; the wire diameter or the bottom thread diameter or material difference is used.
2)Solution: Shrink the stitches, replaced the needle, adjust the thread tension, increase the presser foot pressure, use the thin material backing paper, use the upper thread and the bottom thread which are of the same diameter.
10.Stranded wire.
1)Possible Reasons: The upper thread or the bottom thread have not been pressed by foot; feed dogs sink.
2)Solution: Simultaneously press the upper thread or the bottom thread against the presser foot, lift the feed dogs.
11.Needle Broken.
1)Possible Reasons: Fine needle sewing thick material; Needle installation is not sufficient; Needle fastening screw is loose; Improper presser foot; Loose presser foot.
2)Solution: Change the needle, re-install the needle, tighten the needle to fix the thread, select the applicable presser foot, re-install the presser foot.
12.Too much noise; click, machine crushing.
1)Possible Reasons: Feed dogs are filled of the debris ; the shuttle tip has a yarn; the wire is around the shuttle.
2)Solution: Clean the machine; disassemble and clean the shuttle.
13.Machine does not feed.
1)Possible Reasons: Set the stitch length to 0; The presser foot is too slack; the position of feed dogs is too low; The fabric knots under the thread.
2)Solution: Reset the appropriate pin mode and length, adjust the presser foot pressure to “normal”, lift the feed dogs, place the double wire below the presser foot before starting sewing.
14.Unable to thread the needle; The threader does not move; Threading does not go through the needle eye.
1)Possible Reasons: The needle is not in the highest position; The needle protector is self-protecting when the needle is not in place; The machine needle is not fully installed in place.
2)Solution: Rotate the hand-wheel until the needle reaches the highest position, fully insert the needle.
15.The threader does not return, the sewing machine stops; The threading hook stays in the needle eye.
1)Possible Reasons: The sewing machine accidentally moves while the threading hook is still in the eye of the needle.
2)Solution: Jog the hand-wheel clockwise and remove the hook.

Clothing production civilization develops up to today. Its technological process has become mature. On the surface, all types of clothing production process is roughly the same, but the process of special clothing is different. Generally, for producing down jackets, we will choose high-density, breathable and waterproof fabrics which requires higher cost and a higher level of production process.

Under most circumstances, the down garment factories supply OEM for other brand, so there’s no need for them to be responsible for the style and sample design process. After the strict inspection, the qualified fabric will be registered and stored into the warehouse. From then on, the fabric will start their magnificent transformation and value sublimation.

Cutting Process:
According to the shape of the sample, all fabric will be cut into the required parts, including front piece, back piece, sleeve, hat, pocket, accessories etc.At present, most down garment factories have realized automatic cutting, meanwhile a few factories keep manual cutting. Manual cutting is more flexible, which can properly reduce the margin error, while automatic type can reduce the waste of fabric. From the point of view that reducing raw material cost and labor cost, automatic cutting is the trend.

Sewing Process:
Different from general clothing production, the sewing process of down jacket production refers to the sewing of “lining”, which is commonly referred to as “making lining”.The lining includes front piece, back piece and sleeve, which have been shaped during the cutting process. The down jacket has five essential parts that need to be sewn, one back piece, two sleeves, and two front pieces.
When all the components are finished, you can sew the lining all together. When sewing, you should pay attention to the alignment of the upper and lower layers to avoid lining problem and should lock the edge in time.

JK8200-12080 High Speed Oil-Free Pattern Template Machine

Down Filling Process:
This is the most important and different process between down jacket production and the ordinary clothing production. The traditional artificial filling method: first to fill the down feather, then to sew the edge. Such process is very cumbersome. The amount of down feather in each part is operated according to the designed quantitative table, so as to ensure the maximum density of the down feather is even, which requires the cooperation of two people. One worker will use an electronic scale to weigh the down feather, and another will put the weighed down feather into the corresponding part and fill it up, then sew the edge of the filling bag. Now the down filling work is completed. Faced with such time-consuming and laborious process, the automatic filling machine came into being, and has been widely used in the workshop of big down jacket production factory.

So far, the basic process of down jacket production is completed. A down jacket has been roughly shaped. In order to make the down jacket more practical and beautiful, we need to add a lot of accessories on it, such as collar, front placket, back placket, sleeve and so on. To make the down jacket live longer,we should lock the seaming parts. Finally, check the quality and details of the down jacket to ensure its beauty and quality.

In above process, there are numerous and complicated technologies, such as spreading, quilting, sewing, patting and so on. These processes optimize the production process of down jacket, and at the same time infuse fresh energy into the design of down jacket, promoting the development of down jacket production.

8 Technology of Semi-finished Products

A. Embroidery

If need embroidery, it’s necessary to decide when to make depending on fabrication procedures: some will be made during semi-finished status while some will be done after sewed.

This is “computerized embroidery”.

B. Hot-fix Setting

This is “Hot-fix Setting”.

9 Sewing Binding tape

Once finish matching pieces and making semi-products, workers can send them to Sewing Section.
Here is “Sewing Binding tape”. Many collars of T-shirts are sewn in this way which calls for special sewing skills, because collars are easy to become askew without great care.

10 Lockstitch Sewing Machine

This is “Lockstitch Sewing Machine”. According to specific demands, different lockstitch sewing machines are made to meet the market.

11 Interlock Sewing Machine

This machine can be used to make several parts of cloth and its stitch is chain-stitch.

12 Overlock Sewing Machine

This machine is mainly used for back latching, elastic attaching, pocket sewing, gathering, shower cap edging, spaghetti sewing, fabric joining sewing and so on.

13 Other important Sewing Machines

In order to  meet diversified demand of customers, we can also offer many other  types of sewing machine.

*Multi-needle Double-chain Stitch Sewing Machine

The most conventional models is JK008-13032P.

*Zigzag Sewing Machine

*Feed off the Arm Sewing Machine

*Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

*Bar Tacking Machine

14 Button Holing Machine

These are buttonholes sewn by this machine.

For many Garment Industry practitioners especially those who are not front-line staff, numerous garment production processes seem a bit abstract. Don’t worry~ Let me show you the main Garment Production Process.

1   Incoming Fabric
The original material is cloth.

2   Fabric Inspection
After warehouse receiving cloth, we need inspect the fabric by Fabric Inspection Machine.

About Fabric Inspection, every factory has its own standard. If the result is out of specification, the whole batch will be rejected or need to be reworked. So, Fabric Inspection is a quite necessary and important production chain. Here are  “Fabric inspecting machines” for your reference.

3    Fabric Preshrinking
After Fabric Inspection, those good-quality cloth need loose fabric & gas to keep stability. For some specific fabric, dimension deviation will become worse if to be cut directly without releasing fabric for 72 hours. And general fabric need to keep flat for 24 hours.

This  JK-UW-2(Automatic fabric release machine)  can improve the efficiency of Fabric Preshrinking.

4   Fabric Spreading
If the result of fabric preshrinking is OK, “spreading by computer” will start, only after this can we start to cut fabric.

5   Cloth Cutting
This is the working table of automatic cloth cutting machine.

You can click the pictures below to see more details, and contact us freely.

6    Inspection of Sealed Sample. 
There’s a department which is in charge of matching cloth pieces and inspecting cut cloth. If there is any problem, it can be checked prior to production.

7    Under Pressing
After checking pieces, the Under Pressing Department will start fusing & ironing on some cloth pieces if need.

This is “Fusing press machine”. It is under pressing on some pieces.

What’s the next process ? Can you guess? See you next week~

Before the usage of electric scissors, oil cup should be heated. The blade should be able to move up and down flexible after pushing the knob with several times .

Maintenance:

(1) Using air duct or bellows to blown away the plie on motor and the knife twice a week;

(2) Remove front cover and clean the dirty on screw rod once a week;

(3) Remove the blade at least once a day and clean the knife groove with a tank cleaner;

(4) Do not refuel the floor roller;

(5) If the wheels do not move, please remove and clean it.

Note:

(1) Beware of the blade fast mouth hurt. Please use the handle to start the machine during operation. Please use the handle above the motor when moving the machine.

(2) when sharpening the knife: Please put down the presser foot, press the knife slowly. After several times, you will know the most appropriate way.

(3) When the user changes the new blade, we should rotate the rear end of motor knob A to the bottom of the blade, and blade’s the lowest point B should at C 2-3mm foot presser, as shown below.

Currently, there are four popular craftsmanship: adhesive interlining, semi hemp interlining, full hemp interlining, hand-craft.

Adhesive interlining: Stylish suit is generated through the interlining, which is deemed as the soul to constitute the suit. Interlining is chemical fiber, forcibly bonded together by chemical fiber and wool fiber (ie fabric) through high temperature, thus producing shaping effect to a certain extent.

Adhesive interlining craft has replaced the traditional hemp interlining craft. It was once a major technological revolution in the production of industrial clothing and has made clothing industry as the emergence of main industry with the combination of traditional and modern technology.

Interlining technology makes mass production possible and greatly reduces production cost as well. However, it also brings a lot of problems. Interlining suit is easy to become deformed after washing. It must be dry washed and this will cause dry cleaner polluting environment problems. Furthermore, the interlining is forcibly bonded together making use of chemical substances at high temperatures through wool fiber (fabric) and chemical fiber (lining). It will change the properties of wool fiber to make fabric feel harder. It not only changes the wool fabric original features and comfort, but also easy to cause unglued and bubble phenomenon.

Semi hemp interlining craft: At present, foreign well-known brand high-end suits which are selling well in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and other cities, almost all of them adopt semi hemp interlining and full hemp interlining technology. Semi hemp interlining craft was developed in Europe in the late 1990s as high-end suit craft.

Semi interlining has big difference from adhesive interlining. It draws on the craft essence of hemp lining on chest, lapel and collar, absorbs the interlining process predecessor -bonding process, applies modern high-tech garment equipment and accessories and elaborately made. Front body has three intermediate shaping, namely: three-dimensional ironing machine shaping, highlighting the chest part; three-dimensional ironing machine before interlining, with three-dimensional effect; three-dimensional shaping again after the interlining, make clothing  has strong sense of three-dimension, suiting to body ergonomic curve.

Big sleeves, back and other parts have to go through a rigorous pull and return procedure so as to make sleeves have natural tendency to bend forward, back full and ergonomic and arm exercise conveniently.

The way to make lapel and collar is the biggest difference between semi hemp interlining and adhesive interlining technology. In adhesive interlining technology, lapel and collar use adhesive interlining (need hot ironing to make lapels valgus). During semi hemp interlining process, lapel and chest are lined with high-grade carbon black lining and horsehair and collar is lined with imported special semi hemp interlining and collar end wool. We use special machine to make lapels inward naturally, collars more smooth, lapels and collar full and chest stiff and smooth with appropriate radian and three-dimensional sense.

Computerized sleeve attaching machine has uniformed and elastic stitch. Back and sleeve stitch adopts chain stitch special sewing machine with certain tightness and stable performance imported high-grade sewing thread (staple fiber core-spun yarn). Thread itself is not easy to be modified and has strong toughness. It makes arm forward with larger margin when making activities. The seam allowance for collar, front body, pocket flap and other parts of the sleeve adopt spinning hand-stitch technology. We select imported high-grade thread which has tough and shiny performance and it plays a very good fixation and decorative effect. Bottom special resin lining, and cuff lining make clothing drape strong, natural and smoother.

Full hemp interlining craft: front body doesn’t adopt adhesive interlining and adopt high grade carbon black; lapels adopt carbon interlining; chest adopt several layers of carbon interlining and hosehair interlining. The front body and carbon interlining should be processed after steaming. It is the most complex process in suit and has high requirement for wearing occasion and clothes caring.

Since the advent of intelligent imitation of hand sewing equipment, fabric and lining hand-stitched step has been replaced by robots. Production of non-adhesive interlining suit is the example of modern technology penetrating into modern life and people’s life quality improving.

Full manual process: hand stitch is made by tailors who have years of combating and training, with meticulous precision, balanced stitch and tight fitting. A garment is a work of art. Every stitch and every thread is embodied in rich clothing culture, bursting with artistic brilliance. Tailor takes each piece of clothing as a craft, with their emotional and refining technology to outline, test sample and complete the work. Its value is unmatched with machine production.

Other details of process: Refer to the lining of customization options, sheet lining option ,etc;

In lining options, half lining suit only has fabric at back side and no lining and it is more suitable for summer wear;

In sheet lining options, curve style sheet lining, because of larger area of fabric in the inner side, is more conducive to maintain the shape for chest;

In chest pocket option, box-type chest pocket is more formal; post-style chest pocket is mainly used for casual wear;

Collar is divided into one piece and two piece collars. One piece collar is better in terms of craft and wearing view;

Some brand will do some improvements in details in customization, such as sleeve lining is different from other linings; now many brands will add bead on suit’s collar, cuffs and pocket cover, which appears to have high spirit.

However, these are the improvements in detail. We still focus on important process. Only those important processes can ensure drape, stiff and smooth shape. Of course, human body’s figure is different in thousand ways. Only tailored clothes can ensure a perfect fit into their body, showing their most self-confident, calm and elegant sides.

Printing, embroidery and jacquard are used to decorate garment accessory and fabric such as lace and ribbon; however, do you know how to distinguish between them?

Comparison between printing and jacquard: Printing pattern is printed after weaving, with many choices; jacquard is weaved on fabric in the process of weaving, and after the pattern completes, it can not be changed.

• Printing

Printing is divided into reactive printing and normal printing.

• Offset printing

Offset printing is a transferring material which differs from printing. It is convenient to use as just put offset printing paper on the surface of fabric and then ironing about a few seconds to print the pattern on the fabric.

Offset printing could in some extent replace traditional printing for its cost is lower than other printings. It really provide with convenience to factory and easy to use. Offset printing is used widely, besides garment it also used in toy、hat、shoes、bag、 leather

product、plastic product and wooden product.

• Embroidery

Embroidery pattern is embroidered by embroidery machine after finishing weaving. Comparing with printing, embroidery has good Permeability and Hygroscopicity, and won’t fade while washing. At present, there are many embroidery pattern software in market.

• Jacquard

Jacquard is a weaving method that is weaved with yarn in different color when the pattern on fabric is in process. As for the advantages of jacquard, it cost more but better in quality and Permeability.

GARMENT SEWING QUALITY CONTROL

Garment sewing is important aspect of the process and also the key for quality control. Sewing quality should be judged and controlled from appearance, fastness and craft and to size. In this periodical, we do a detailed explanation of appearance, fastness and craft.

SEWING APPEARANCE

Sewing appearance is mainly judged from sewing stitch’s straightness and flatness, open stitch decorative effect, sleeve and collar sewing smoothness as well as pocket, belt loop and other part’s sewing position.

Garment sewing stitch is divided into open stitch and blind stitch. Open stitch can be saw directly. We must ensure that the location is accurate and density is reasonable. In accordance with the standards disconnection and stitch jumping phenomenon are not allowed. Chain stitches sewing both open stitch and blind stitch are not allowed to appear disconnection and stitch jumping phenomenon. Cuff, leg opening etc. closed stitch, the sewing position should choose the inside of joint. You can use the corresponding or high and low presser foot or other auxiliary equipment so as to not only guarantee sewing position accuracy, but also increase sewing speed.

Sewing stitch can’t be traced if it is blind stitch. We will ensure accurate seam allowance and stitch smoothness so as to achieve customized design size. We will also reach order or related sewing density standard in order to ensure the seam fastness. It is necessary to do overlocking or edge rolling treatment for no lining and lining and fabric not completely closed, in order to prevent fur taking off and leakage phenomenon.

SEWING FASTNESS

Sewing fastness will affect the service life of garment. There are a lot of factors that affect the sewing fastness. The main factors are: gauge set density, seam allowance size, fabric thickness, fabric density, sewing thread quality and seam pattern. There are two indicators to analyze sewing fastness: the seam slippage degree and seam strength. Top of the sewn seams are high fastness back seam, armhole seam, swing seam and side seam have high requirement for sewing fastness. Back crotch seam, inside and outside seam of trousers have high requirement for sewing fastness. China’s national standard for seam slippage requirement is no more than 0.6 cm. Pants’ back crotch seam strength requirement is not less than 120N and jeans’ requirement is 140N.

If you want to meet the required strength standards, please ensure that these parts’ seam allowance can not be less than 0.8cm and sewing density reaches every 3cm with 12 sewing needles. Please adopt double stitch and chain stitch to sew back crotch seam of trousers. In order to achieve the appropriate strength in the crotch seam of jeans, please adopt feed-off-the-arm stitch, chain stitch and feed-off-the-arm stitch that make the strength even better.

Fabric has greater impact on sewing fastness. Therefore, thin fabric sewing needs to increase the density, or take come and go sewing and other methods to ensure the seam stitching fastness. In addition, different fabrics require different needles and threads. Thus, the right needle and thread are also important factors of sewing fastness. Please refer to “the selection of needle” and ” the selection of sewing thread” to review the detailed analysis of this part.

SEWING CRAFT

Sewing craft refers to the sewing process and seam treatment, with the adoption of different sewing equipment. Sophisticated technology makes garment have graceful silhouette, smooth lines, firm sewing, flat fabrics with very high degree of compliance with the human body. Both inside and outside of garment are neat and seam allowance is reasonable.

Sewing craft needs to study sewing methods, sewing equipment, sewing aiding pieces, sewing efficiency and quality assurance. Garment enterprises will confirm sewing craft, make processing list and guide production lines during sample production combined with product positioning. You can use different sewing techniques for the same garment. Processing companies can use suitable equipment and process technology in the production of sample clothing. As long as recognized by customers, it can be used as assembly line production process method. Processing enterprises can eliminates the intermediate ironing and hand seaming from the perspective of efficiency, such clothing will appear uneven in seaming parts. If the garment is missing some of the normalized ironing processing, the garment can not reflect the curvature. If you do not master the reasonable portions of shrink position, the garment can not be manifested in radians. The hand sewing or fixing for seaming part can not be missing.

Garment processing procedure is controlled by the mastery of details and combination of machine, craft and technology. Thus, high-quality garment can be produced. Sewing quality improving is not only depended on frontline sewing workers’ sewing skills, but also is inseparable with the joint efforts of technical personnel’s research and management personnel’s supervision and control.

The adjustment of JK373 Button attaching machine: When the machine is braking, the presser foot is completely up to the highest point, standard distance between wire cutter plate (front) and the needle plate is 13mm.

Standard spacing adjustment; remove the head base baffle plate, and then loosen the two nuts, screws for connecting mobile before and after, use the model to adjust the spacing to 13mm, then tighten the two nuts. When tightening the nut, wire cutter webs should be in a horizontal position.

Acting trimming knife hook height adjustment:
Stripping hook height standard: the distance between a hook and line should be maintained at 0.5 ~ 0.7mm. If not, you can bend wire hook a little.

Lifting lever and the adjustable screw adjustment
The distance between the top of the lifting lever and adjustable screw ought to be 0.5mm. Loosen the lock nut, turn the screw up and down, transferred after a gap of 0.5mm, and tighten the lock nut.

Common fault causes and treatment methods
Do not cut the line
Wire hook could not reliably poke a side of fabric. So adjust the position of the thread cutting knife; sewing machine needles do not fall into the center of the eye button, rolling head holder to adjust; in the final stitch point, adjust the needle and looper (relative position); if the height of cutting knife is inappropriate, adjust it.

Needle thread and thread on the back of the fabric are cut
if the position of acting trimming knife does not fit, adjust the position of knife when machine finishes braking.
After the thread is cut, the thread on the back of the fabric is exposed too long.
Maybe the timing of thread cut knife is inappropriate, adjust the position of it. If the reason is the uplift amount button presser device is too large, ries the button clamp jaw to 9mm.

It is very important to learn arm three dimensional cutting because it is the basis of sleeve type. The quality of the arm sleeve type plays a significant role. Here I want to share with you my personal favorite three dimensional cutting techniques:

1.  Style Positioning

First, choose the right mannequin according to your company style. Please find the latitude and longitude lines at neckline 13CM down. If neckline and side seams are not subjected to a line. Please measure it based on neckline. Do not use mannequin’s arm root, See below:

2.  latitude and longitude lines

Find a piece of A4 paper attached to the top; cut two holes to make paper and mannequin stick together; copy outline and latitude and longitude lines.

3. Do net version

See picture: cut off the excessive paper and make net version.

4. Make latitude and longitude lines posted

Please find our hard paperboard and posted latitude and longitude lines; I do not have hard paperboard at hand and use disc instead (use scissors for help).

5. Gray cloth packing

See below: to pack it with three-dimensional gray cloth.

6.  Free to draw the outline in your heart; do not draw the structure lines; draw lines will be bound by the line; do not find the feeling is very tired; But focus monitoring can not be missing. You can draw a lot of lines if you can not find the feeling.

7. Seventh: Find the lines

See picture: please get a line you want among the lines you drew.

8. Divide big and small sleeve

Divide big and small sleeve sections; make pattern according to flat sleeve style by ratio, see below:

9. Decomposition pattern

At this period, net version pattern can be used because it lacks of amount of loose cotton.

10.  Amount of loose cotton

It is necessary to add amount of loose cotton at attached picture.

11. Horizontal and vertical method

It is known among pattern maker that three dimensional cutting is divided into and vertical methods. In terms of horizontal method, the harder the better. Roll- in and double-decker method can be adopted. Vertical method is simple. Please see picture below. First use four needles to fix sleeve opening, and then fill the needle to make it in a balanced manner.

12. Style confirmation

We like sleeve type curved and make arm bent. It is recommended to do a straight one to meet different designer’s style requirement.

Many people think that the inventor of the sewing machine is Singer, in fact, 169 years ago on September 10, 1846, the U.S. Patent Office to inventor Elias Howe (Elias Howe) issued the first sewing machine patents, patent number as “US 4750 A”, patent name called “Improvement in sewing – those” (A kind of sewing machine Improvement).

Elias Howe in 1846 invention of the sewing machine

You might ask, since it is improved that it is not the first sewing machine, why this day as the sewing machine’s birthday? This is because, before that, there are a lot of people have invented a sewing machine, even the earliest can be traced back to 1755, the Germans Charles Wiesenthal won the first in the UK the patent of the sewing machine, to facilitate sewing by hand. Elias Howe, however, significant improvements were made on the sewing machine, making it the first truly modern sense of the sewing machine. He used the double chain sewing method, and a series of crucial for modern sewing machine structure, such as set in the eye of a needle tip, automatic feeding device, etc. So he is the true sense of the inventor of the sewing machine.

Double chain sewing method

How did he think of set the eye of a needle on the needle point ? His mother’s family history records a story: as a result of the house day and night work, in one night dreaming that I am unable to improve sewing machine and angered the king, the king sent soldiers to catch his crucifixion. Soldier holding a spear in the dream, the spear point is in the shape of hollow out and gave him the inspiration.

Howe patented only 27 years old.  in October 1846, his brother Amasa.Bemis.Hao sold his machine for 250 pounds to the London businessman William Thomas, who has a factory, making tights, umbrellas and suitcase.

At the same time, many people started to copy his sewing machine. Elias found Isaac Singer (which is now the founder of the “American household sewing machine”) and Walter hunt were used in the production of sewing machine he invented by double chain sewing method. To protect their patent right, he was forced to took to the court. Lawsuit lasted from 1849 to 1849, spent a lot of money and effort, finally won the lawsuit, and received the excessive royalties paid by Singer.
– Household sewing machine

In 1867, the Paris world’s fair, Hao of the sewing machine won a gold medal. That same year, he won the napoleon iii awarded the medal of honor.
In 2004, Elias Howe was inducted into the national inventors hall of fame. His invention of the sewing machine, popular in the world, walked into the thousands of lives, changed the history of the human manufacturing clothes. Today we are the world’s 70 hundreds of millions of people are enjoying the good and cheap clothing, there is no doubt that Elias, have made great contributions for this reason, everyone should for his thumb up!