Garment cutting-3/3/2016

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It is very important to learn arm three dimensional cutting because it is the basis of sleeve type. The quality of the arm sleeve type plays a significant role. Here I want to share with you my personal favorite three dimensional cutting techniques:

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1.  Style Positioning

First, choose the right mannequin according to your company style. Please find the latitude and longitude lines at neckline 13CM down. If neckline and side seams are not subjected to a line. Please measure it based on neckline. Do not use mannequin’s arm root, See below:

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2.  latitude and longitude lines

Find a piece of A4 paper attached to the top; cut two holes to make paper and mannequin stick together; copy outline and latitude and longitude lines.

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3. Do net version

See picture: cut off the excessive paper and make net version.

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4. Make latitude and longitude lines posted

Please find our hard paperboard and posted latitude and longitude lines; I do not have hard paperboard at hand and use disc instead (use scissors for help).

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5. Gray cloth packing

See below: to pack it with three-dimensional gray cloth.

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6.  Free to draw the outline in your heart; do not draw the structure lines; draw lines will be bound by the line; do not find the feeling is very tired; But focus monitoring can not be missing. You can draw a lot of lines if you can not find the feeling.

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7. Seventh: Find the lines

See picture: please get a line you want among the lines you drew.

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8. Divide big and small sleeve

Divide big and small sleeve sections; make pattern according to flat sleeve style by ratio, see below:

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9. Decomposition pattern

At this period, net version pattern can be used because it lacks of amount of loose cotton.

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10.  Amount of loose cotton

It is necessary to add amount of loose cotton at attached picture.

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11. Horizontal and vertical method

It is known among pattern maker that three dimensional cutting is divided into and vertical methods. In terms of horizontal method, the harder the better. Roll- in and double-decker method can be adopted. Vertical method is simple. Please see picture below. First use four needles to fix sleeve opening, and then fill the needle to make it in a balanced manner.

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12. Style confirmation

We like sleeve type curved and make arm bent. It is recommended to do a straight one to meet different designer’s style requirement.

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