Currently, there are four popular craftsmanship: adhesive interlining, semi hemp interlining, full hemp interlining, hand-craft.

Adhesive interlining: Stylish suit is generated through the interlining, which is deemed as the soul to constitute the suit. Interlining is chemical fiber, forcibly bonded together by chemical fiber and wool fiber (ie fabric) through high temperature, thus producing shaping effect to a certain extent.

Adhesive interlining craft has replaced the traditional hemp interlining craft. It was once a major technological revolution in the production of industrial clothing and has made clothing industry as the emergence of main industry with the combination of traditional and modern technology.

Interlining technology makes mass production possible and greatly reduces production cost as well. However, it also brings a lot of problems. Interlining suit is easy to become deformed after washing. It must be dry washed and this will cause dry cleaner polluting environment problems. Furthermore, the interlining is forcibly bonded together making use of chemical substances at high temperatures through wool fiber (fabric) and chemical fiber (lining). It will change the properties of wool fiber to make fabric feel harder. It not only changes the wool fabric original features and comfort, but also easy to cause unglued and bubble phenomenon.

Semi hemp interlining craft: At present, foreign well-known brand high-end suits which are selling well in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and other cities, almost all of them adopt semi hemp interlining and full hemp interlining technology. Semi hemp interlining craft was developed in Europe in the late 1990s as high-end suit craft.

Semi interlining has big difference from adhesive interlining. It draws on the craft essence of hemp lining on chest, lapel and collar, absorbs the interlining process predecessor -bonding process, applies modern high-tech garment equipment and accessories and elaborately made. Front body has three intermediate shaping, namely: three-dimensional ironing machine shaping, highlighting the chest part; three-dimensional ironing machine before interlining, with three-dimensional effect; three-dimensional shaping again after the interlining, make clothing  has strong sense of three-dimension, suiting to body ergonomic curve.

Big sleeves, back and other parts have to go through a rigorous pull and return procedure so as to make sleeves have natural tendency to bend forward, back full and ergonomic and arm exercise conveniently.

The way to make lapel and collar is the biggest difference between semi hemp interlining and adhesive interlining technology. In adhesive interlining technology, lapel and collar use adhesive interlining (need hot ironing to make lapels valgus). During semi hemp interlining process, lapel and chest are lined with high-grade carbon black lining and horsehair and collar is lined with imported special semi hemp interlining and collar end wool. We use special machine to make lapels inward naturally, collars more smooth, lapels and collar full and chest stiff and smooth with appropriate radian and three-dimensional sense.

Computerized sleeve attaching machine has uniformed and elastic stitch. Back and sleeve stitch adopts chain stitch special sewing machine with certain tightness and stable performance imported high-grade sewing thread (staple fiber core-spun yarn). Thread itself is not easy to be modified and has strong toughness. It makes arm forward with larger margin when making activities. The seam allowance for collar, front body, pocket flap and other parts of the sleeve adopt spinning hand-stitch technology. We select imported high-grade thread which has tough and shiny performance and it plays a very good fixation and decorative effect. Bottom special resin lining, and cuff lining make clothing drape strong, natural and smoother.

Full hemp interlining craft: front body doesn’t adopt adhesive interlining and adopt high grade carbon black; lapels adopt carbon interlining; chest adopt several layers of carbon interlining and hosehair interlining. The front body and carbon interlining should be processed after steaming. It is the most complex process in suit and has high requirement for wearing occasion and clothes caring.

Since the advent of intelligent imitation of hand sewing equipment, fabric and lining hand-stitched step has been replaced by robots. Production of non-adhesive interlining suit is the example of modern technology penetrating into modern life and people’s life quality improving.

Full manual process: hand stitch is made by tailors who have years of combating and training, with meticulous precision, balanced stitch and tight fitting. A garment is a work of art. Every stitch and every thread is embodied in rich clothing culture, bursting with artistic brilliance. Tailor takes each piece of clothing as a craft, with their emotional and refining technology to outline, test sample and complete the work. Its value is unmatched with machine production.

Other details of process: Refer to the lining of customization options, sheet lining option ,etc;

In lining options, half lining suit only has fabric at back side and no lining and it is more suitable for summer wear;

In sheet lining options, curve style sheet lining, because of larger area of fabric in the inner side, is more conducive to maintain the shape for chest;

In chest pocket option, box-type chest pocket is more formal; post-style chest pocket is mainly used for casual wear;

Collar is divided into one piece and two piece collars. One piece collar is better in terms of craft and wearing view;

Some brand will do some improvements in details in customization, such as sleeve lining is different from other linings; now many brands will add bead on suit’s collar, cuffs and pocket cover, which appears to have high spirit.

However, these are the improvements in detail. We still focus on important process. Only those important processes can ensure drape, stiff and smooth shape. Of course, human body’s figure is different in thousand ways. Only tailored clothes can ensure a perfect fit into their body, showing their most self-confident, calm and elegant sides.