GARMENT SEWING QUALITY CONTROL

Garment sewing is important aspect of the process and also the key for quality control. Sewing quality should be judged and controlled from appearance, fastness and craft and to size. In this periodical, we do a detailed explanation of appearance, fastness and craft.

SEWING APPEARANCE

Sewing appearance is mainly judged from sewing stitch’s straightness and flatness, open stitch decorative effect, sleeve and collar sewing smoothness as well as pocket, belt loop and other part’s sewing position.

Garment sewing stitch is divided into open stitch and blind stitch. Open stitch can be saw directly. We must ensure that the location is accurate and density is reasonable. In accordance with the standards disconnection and stitch jumping phenomenon are not allowed. Chain stitches sewing both open stitch and blind stitch are not allowed to appear disconnection and stitch jumping phenomenon. Cuff, leg opening etc. closed stitch, the sewing position should choose the inside of joint. You can use the corresponding or high and low presser foot or other auxiliary equipment so as to not only guarantee sewing position accuracy, but also increase sewing speed.

Sewing stitch can’t be traced if it is blind stitch. We will ensure accurate seam allowance and stitch smoothness so as to achieve customized design size. We will also reach order or related sewing density standard in order to ensure the seam fastness. It is necessary to do overlocking or edge rolling treatment for no lining and lining and fabric not completely closed, in order to prevent fur taking off and leakage phenomenon.

SEWING FASTNESS

Sewing fastness will affect the service life of garment. There are a lot of factors that affect the sewing fastness. The main factors are: gauge set density, seam allowance size, fabric thickness, fabric density, sewing thread quality and seam pattern. There are two indicators to analyze sewing fastness: the seam slippage degree and seam strength. Top of the sewn seams are high fastness back seam, armhole seam, swing seam and side seam have high requirement for sewing fastness. Back crotch seam, inside and outside seam of trousers have high requirement for sewing fastness. China’s national standard for seam slippage requirement is no more than 0.6 cm. Pants’ back crotch seam strength requirement is not less than 120N and jeans’ requirement is 140N.

If you want to meet the required strength standards, please ensure that these parts’ seam allowance can not be less than 0.8cm and sewing density reaches every 3cm with 12 sewing needles. Please adopt double stitch and chain stitch to sew back crotch seam of trousers. In order to achieve the appropriate strength in the crotch seam of jeans, please adopt feed-off-the-arm stitch, chain stitch and feed-off-the-arm stitch that make the strength even better.

Fabric has greater impact on sewing fastness. Therefore, thin fabric sewing needs to increase the density, or take come and go sewing and other methods to ensure the seam stitching fastness. In addition, different fabrics require different needles and threads. Thus, the right needle and thread are also important factors of sewing fastness. Please refer to “the selection of needle” and ” the selection of sewing thread” to review the detailed analysis of this part.

SEWING CRAFT

Sewing craft refers to the sewing process and seam treatment, with the adoption of different sewing equipment. Sophisticated technology makes garment have graceful silhouette, smooth lines, firm sewing, flat fabrics with very high degree of compliance with the human body. Both inside and outside of garment are neat and seam allowance is reasonable.

Sewing craft needs to study sewing methods, sewing equipment, sewing aiding pieces, sewing efficiency and quality assurance. Garment enterprises will confirm sewing craft, make processing list and guide production lines during sample production combined with product positioning. You can use different sewing techniques for the same garment. Processing companies can use suitable equipment and process technology in the production of sample clothing. As long as recognized by customers, it can be used as assembly line production process method. Processing enterprises can eliminates the intermediate ironing and hand seaming from the perspective of efficiency, such clothing will appear uneven in seaming parts. If the garment is missing some of the normalized ironing processing, the garment can not reflect the curvature. If you do not master the reasonable portions of shrink position, the garment can not be manifested in radians. The hand sewing or fixing for seaming part can not be missing.

Garment processing procedure is controlled by the mastery of details and combination of machine, craft and technology. Thus, high-quality garment can be produced. Sewing quality improving is not only depended on frontline sewing workers’ sewing skills, but also is inseparable with the joint efforts of technical personnel’s research and management personnel’s supervision and control.